Black Monkey:Long-tailed macaque dyed black

While going to one of our field sites in Kalimantan Tengah a few days ago, we were driving along a terrible dirt road. Suddenly I spotted, out of the corner of my eye, a monkey tied to a pole. There was something unusual about the monkey. It was relatively small, black, and had a long tail. “Silver leaf monkey!” I thought to myself and brought the pick-up truck to a screeching halt.

In 40 years in Borneo, the only silver leaf monkeys I had ever seen were in the wild. I had observed a few along the Sekonyer River, along rivers in the interior of Borneo and once or twice at Camp Leakey. But, in fact, I have not observed  silver leaf monkeys for some years. I had never observed one in captivity.

I jumped out of the pick-up and approached the monkey. Next to her, there were two women and a man sitting in front of a wooden hut in a transmigration project with fields in the back.

Fortunately, there was a forestry official in his fire-fighting uniform with us. I’ve known him for at least 15 years, maybe longer. He knows the routine. We’ve done this a few times before. He immediately started speaking to the woman closest to the black monkey, telling her it was illegal to keep the monkey. In reality, long-tailed macaques are not endangered and, thus, not protected in the strict legal sense that orangutans and gibbons are under Indonesian law.

In the meantime, I looked intently at the monkey, quickly realizing that it wasn’t a leaf-eating monkey at all. Silver leaf monkeys are colobines; they are also known as silver langurs. The individuals I had seen in the wild looked black from a distance but, in reality, their black hair was touched with silvery tips. Infants are bright orange, startlingly different in color from their parents.

Colobines have complex stomachs which enable them to digest mature leaves and, probably, unripe fruits. They spend part of the day just sitting, digesting. Their long intestines give them a pear-shaped body, making them look perpetually pregnant.

As I gazed at this monkey, I confirmed to my own satisfaction that she was clearly not a langur. As I observed her for a few more seconds, I realized that she was a member of a much more ubiquitous species, the long-tailed or crab-eating macaque, one of the smallest of all macaques and certainly one of the most common monkeys in Indonesia. Macaques are very versatile monkeys with some species seemingly equally at home on the ground and in the trees. A touch of disappointment manifested itself for a brief second in my mind as I would have been delighted to rescue a rare langur, but then I was relieved that the little black monkey was a macaque, not a langur.

Langurs virtually never survive in captivity, at least under local conditions. One of my former SFU (Simon Fraser University) students tried to save a red leaf monkey infant a few years ago at our Care Center but the little monkey soon died. Macaques, on the other hand, are extremely hardy and can survive under the difficult conditions of local captivity.

I was still puzzled as to why the hair of the little macaque was jet black. Normally, long-tailed macaques are grey. The macaque’s owner, a Javanese woman in her twenties, explained. She had dyed the little monkey’s hair black to match the black polish on her own fingernails which she displayed.

The woman quickly gave up her little monkey. She didn’t even seem sad or ask for any re-imbursement (as some owners do). She seemed resigned to the fact that somebody would just show up in a uniform and take her little pet away. Within a few seconds the little black monkey was in a cardboard box in the back of our pickup.

We brought her to the Orangutan Care Center and Quarantine. The little black monkey was very sweet, shy, and didn’t bite at all. We put her into a plastic dog carrier (that I had used many years ago to rescue a dog in Japan) with the door to the carrier open. Every once in a while she would leave the carrier and race around in circles through the room and root through anything she could find, ripping open the pages of books, noodle packages, and the like. She liked an old white tee-shirt we gave her under which she would hide and peek out at us.

But she never tried to bite anyone, unlike some other macaques we have known! One of our volunteers wrapped her up in a burlap sack and held her tightly, a technique the volunteer had learned in Africa for calming down vervet monkeys. It worked with the little macaque as well. She calmed down eventually but it took a little time. By the time night rolled around, the little monkey curled up in the white tee-shirt inside the dog carrier and fell asleep.

We’ve never had a sweet macaque like her before! A little wild and rambunctious, but still sweet. There is something a little dainty about her, something unusual for a macaque. Or maybe I simply don’t know too many juvenile long-tailed macaques!

We know our first mission is to rescue and protect orangutans. But how could we leave this little monkey behind?

Black Monkey eating boiled egg with dog carrier behind her, tipped over on side

Black Monkey sitting in dog carrier

Location of Attack, Kuda Laut Post, in Tanjung Puting National Park, Central Indonesian Borneo (Kalimantan)

On November 19,2009 around one in the afternoon, a group of 63 Indonesian police officers with two dump trucks supported by Park rangers and Orangutan Foundation International (OFI) rangers moved into an illegal dry ground strip mining area inside the very northern edge of Tanjung Puting National Park and began arresting illegal miners and confiscating their equipment.

This area was close to one of Orangutan Foundation International’s mobile guard posts, called Kuta Laut, which consisted of a large inboard motorboat (the kind that is called “kelotok” in Kalimantan) moored next to a small hut and watchtower on the Sekonyer River’s edge. At about five in the afternoon, the three OFI rangers at the post radioed for help saying that they were being attacked by approximately 25 men with sharpened machetes. These illegal miners had arrived in two boats at the Kuda Laut post, seeking revenge for the mass arrests that had just taken place in the large strip mine up river.

OFI boat named Kuda Laut used as a mobile guard post on northern border of Tanjung Puting National Park

The men burned the watchtower, hut, and boat doing about nine thousand dollars in damage. Outnumbered and outmacheted, our courageous OFI rangers moved back out of harm’s way but remained at their posts.The miners were belligerent and waved their machetes at the rangers but, ultimately, did not harm them.

At the same time in the town of Kumai where many of the illegal miners had families, mobs started forming to protest the arrest of family members for illegal mining. The police responded by putting up numerous roadblocks throughout the town.

At about eight that evening, once the situation in Kumai had cooled down, several OFI rangers accompanied by men from the Sekonyer Village left for the Kuda Laut Post to evacuate the three OFI rangers who had remained with the burned remains of the boat.

I will have more to say about this incident in the next post.

Burned boat, named Kuda Luat, destroyed by angry illegal miners, furious about the arrests of their co-workers in the stripmine

Burned Guard Post, a victim of angry illegal miners

Tut and Tiido photo taken in 2008

Tut’s twins were born on October 15, 2009 at Camp Leakey, our facility supported and managed by Orangutan Foundation International, but Tranquillity, the weaker twin of the two, soon died. We named Thor, the stonger twin who survived, for the day of the week that he was born, Thursday. Since both twins were male, it is possible that the twins were identical ones but, of course, we don’t know for sure.

Thor is doing fine. Tut is very protective of him so it’s been difficult to get a good photo. The photo I have put up with today’s post is one I took of Tut in 2008 when her previous infant, a little male named Tiido, was still alive. I named Tiido after the surname of my childhood best friend in Toronto and her family – not the late dictator of Yugoslavia! Tiido was killed by a wild Bornean bearded pig, but survived for hours after being rescued and returned to Tut by our courageous OFI rangers. Unfortunately, Tiido was dead the next morning when Tut emerged from her nest. The OFI rangers heard Tiido crying and whimpering all night long so assumed he would survive. They were sadly mistaken. He must have died of internal injuries. Let’s hope Thor lives up to his name, the God of Thunder, and not only survives but thrives like his older brother Tom who is now the dominant male of the forest around Camp Leakey.

Tom, Tut's adult male son, with fruit in mouth.

Orangutan twins are a rare occurrence in nature! On October 15,2009 an orangutan female named Tut gave birth to twins at Camp Leakey in Tanjung Puting National Park, Central Indonesian Borneo.
She first appeared on the bridge in the morning carrying her two newborn infants . Since one of the twins seemed weak, the Camp Manager contacted OFI’s Orangutan Care Center and Quarantine in Pasir Panjang near Pangkalan Bun to request medical assistance. Unfortunately, the veterinary team was unable to save the male infant who died shortly afterwards. So far the surviving twin is doing well.

This is the first time that orangutan twins have been witnessed at Camp Leakey and/or Tanjung Puting National Park. Since orangutan females frequently come to Camp Leakey with their newborn infants after an absence of several days or more having given birth in forest solitude, it is possible that twins had been previously born but only one survived. In cases like this, when the female finally arrived in camp with the sole surviving twin, there is no way that the assistants or I would have known that the female had initially given birth to twins.

Among humans there are 32 twin live births per 1,000 live births. Living human twins constitute about 1.9% of the world’s human population. Of these, only 8% are identical.

The weak twin did not survive.

We don’t know the equivalent figures for great ape twins. There have been twins born among the wild chimpanzees at Gombe. Melissa, one of the chimpanzees initially studied by Jane Goodall, had twins many years ago sometime in the 1970’s but only one survived. I remember Jane mentioning Melissa’s twins with excitement (at the birth) and sadness (for the death) in a letter she wrote to me at the time and which I received in Camp Leakey. Then in 1998 Melissa’s offspring Gremlin gave birth to a healthy pair of twins, Goldie and Glitta. So it must run in the family! This is also true of humans. That was the comment that actor (the term she perfers as she made clear when she filmed at Camp Leakey)) Julia Roberts made when she was congratulated on the birth of her twins, saying she wasn’t surprised as her family tended to twin.

An orangutan female carrying twins was sighted by observers in the Lower Kinabatangan region in Sabah (one of two Malaysian states on Borneo) during November 2007. This is the first observation of a wild orangutan with twins ever recorded. Unfortunately, it is not known if that particular orangutan female was ever seen again with her twins.

Tut with her twins

Orangutan twins were also seen in 1991 at the Sepilok Rehabilitation Center where the mother was most likely a rehabilitated ex-captive orangutan. There have also been at least three known births of twins in captivity, two in the United States and one in Indonesia.

Among most large mammals who normally give birth to singletons, twins tend to be smaller and have higher neonatal mortality rates. I have read that in deer populations which are hunted, that the does are more likely to give birth to twins rather than single fawns as compared to populations where hunting does not occur. Females also reproduce more quickly and at younger ages. I am speculating wildly here but I wonder if a similar phenomenon could occur in non-human primates due to excessive stress. Who knows?

All I can say is that it took me almost 40 years of observation to see the first twin births among the population of orangutans who are resident in the forests around Camp Leakey. Who knows what else we might see if we have the patience and robustness to observe for another 40 years?

An understandably weary Tut with her twins

They say that a photo is worth a thousand words. Here is the equivalent of a few thousand words: photos of the fires that OFI is facing and fighting in 2009. The extreme droughts that enable human-made fires to blaze throughout Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo) and Sumatra seem to be much more frequent than they ever used to be. The last El Nino was in 2006 when over 50 of our OFI assistants fought the fires for almost two months before the fires were brought to a stop.

Some scientists believe that the increasing frequency of El Nino years is related to global climate change. Having lived in Borneo for several decades I suspect that this belief is true.

The eastern part of Tanjung Puting National Park, which is directly next to palm oil plantations, burned in 2006, making it particularly vulnerable to fire again in 2009. It is in this critical area of double jeoparty that the above photos of OFI rangers fighting the fires were taken. Once forest is repeatedly burned, secondary succession is deflected and it is very difficult for the tropical rain forest to return.

At least one thousand of the six thousand wild orangutans in Tanjung Puting National Park and its vicinity live on the eastern side of the Park where the fires are currently burning. It is crucial that these fires be stopped for the sake of wild orangutan populations and all wildlife in the area. OFI is doing all it can to make this happen but we need help and funding.

OFI rangers fighting fire on eastern side of Tanjung Puting National Park

Hot spots in and around the vicinity of Tanjung Puting Park as of the end of August 2009

The fires are blazing again in Kalimantan! I sit weary and exhausted in front of my computer but not nearly as weary as the OFI (Orangutan Foundation International) assistants who have been fighting these fires for several weeks now since the end of August. We were warned that 2009 would be an El Nino year for months but the persistent rains which fell in July belied the situation. It wasn’t until mid-August that the sun took on that deadly red glow as it hung in the grey sky, the glow that tells us this will be no normal dry season. When the sky takes on the colors of a Japanese print we know. We know that it is going to be a long severe season of drought.

The Park is ablaze but not where the tourists go. They may smell the smoke and see the haze in the sky but Camp Leakey and the forests around it remain untouched because we are there and have been for 38 years. It is where the farmers work and where the enclaved villages are located within the Park that the fires burn out of control. It is also on the Park boundaries next to the palm oil plantations that the worst fires burn.

In 2006 during the last El Nino year OFI and its partners battled fires that ultimately destroyed about 15% of Tanjung Puting National Park. We are now trying to prevent the same. We are fighting the fires shoulder to shoulder with our partners in the Forestry Department and we need all the support that we can get.

A dipterocarp seed on the ground in the newly bought forest

Mr. Freddy is a local businessperson from whom OFI recently bought 20 hectares of forest land.  He has nothing to do with my son Fred who is called Freddie by some of his friends.

Upon my return to Kalimantan (Indonesian Borneo), the first thing I did was check, once again, the 20 hectares of forest OFI had bought from Mr. Freddy.  A small part of the 20 hectares consists of an open field with some of the tallest coconut trees I have ever seen, perhaps 50 feet tall. 

The boundary of the purchased forest is in tropical peat swamp forest with some large trees, including dipterocarps, found within.  The rest of the forest consists of dry ground forest.  There is a footpath which makes walking through the forest a treat.  As we walked there, the sun was shining and the sky was blue.  There were virtually no mosquitoes, despite the presence of the swamp forest nearby. 

At the end of our walk, everyone was thirsty.  I had run out of water as I had brought a very small container, only half full of water.  I hadn’t realized that we would be walking the forest boundary which was still ankle deep and occasionally knee-deep in water.  The forest floor was soggy mud.  Only at the height of the dry season does the swamp turn into solid ground. In mid-July we are still a few weeks away.

It was a hard walk.  I was wearing my black Crocs, very much showing their wear and tear after three years of non-stop use. The swamp water conveniently poured out of the decorative holes in my Crocs but the age of the shoes also meant my feet had no traction and no real support as I slipped and slid on the smooth roots of trees and in the mud.

Mr. Freddy and Dayak village elder Mr. Ijai on forest land bought by OFI

When we finally got to the clearing I was relieved.  I asked if any of the young Dayak assistants could climb one of the coconut palms and toss down a few young coconuts so we all could relieve our thirst.  Mr. Freddy who comes from Sumatra volunteered that he couldn’t do it.  He mentioned that in Sumatra people train pig-tail macaques to climb coconut trees and pick coconuts.  However, in Borneo Dayak men frequently climb trees; it is one of the cultural traits for which they are known (actually some Dayak women also climb trees fairly well).

I looked at the 67 year old Pak Ijai.  “Malas” he said (which translates to “lazy” but meant he didn’t want to make the effort to do it).  I guess the look of disappointment on my face, which I tried to hide,  got to him as he suddenly smiled and said “I’ll do it if you take my picture!”  I agreed happily.

So the 67 year old Pak Ijai climbed up a tall coconut, seemingly effortlessly.  When he came down, having tossed down at least 20 young coconuts and fighting off biting red ants in the palm fronds at the top of the tree, he scarcely seemed winded. The sheen of sweat on his face was minimal.  By this time I was sweating profusely.

Of course, Pak Ijai had brought a machete and we sat down, cut open the coconuts, carved out some of the delicious, fresh flesh and drank the sweet juice.  There were about seven or eight of us and the coconuts we didn’t open, we took with us to give to the orangutans at OFI’s Orangutan Care Center and Quarantine in the Dayak village.

What wimps we modern people are!  Even the young Dayaks who could climb (I’ve seen them!) said the coconut palms were far too tall for them.

I looked at the 67 year old Pak Ijai and marvelled.  He was just an ordinary older Dayak man.  There was a good chance he couldn’t read or write but he could climb a coconut tree in the same manner that younger people climb stairs.  I knew he had skills that we could barely imagine.  I noticed that while walking in the swamp, his gait was as though he was walking on a level wooden floor.  I couldn’t keep up with him. 

He could probably carve a machete handle beautifully, make a fire without matches, find a vine full of water in the depths of the forest, identify all the birds he heard, find poison for the darts he made out of different forest woods to use in the blowpipe he manufactured himself, and make a hut for himself in a matter of minutes if overnighting in the forest.  And he probably could do much, much more!

Yet some people might call him uneducated because he never went to school!  For a few moments, I was in total awe of this traditional elder who could do so much in the forest while we could do so little.  I thanked him profusely for the young coconuts we had enjoyed and showed him the photos I had taken of him climbing up the coconut palm.  A slight smile curved his mouth as he watched the pictures on the screen of my digital camera.

Sixty-seven year old Dayak village elder Pak Ijai climbs a tall coconut tree

Walking through the 20 ha. forest bought from Mr. Freddy

The main threat to orangutan existence as populations in the wild consists of deforestation.  The forests of Southeast Asia, where orangutans live, are being destroyed by massive cutting and burning to establish palm oil plantations and industrial timber estates.

Orangutans are the largest arboreal frugivores (fruit-eaters) on the planet.  They need vast areas of tropical rain forest to survive.  So what is the point of OFI buying 20 hectares (approximately 50 acres) when an orangutan male might need 100 square kilometers (100,000 hectares) of forest to survive in the course of his long life. (Orangutans have lived more than 60 years in captivity and probably sometimes live even longer in the wild.)

An old proverb says that the longest journey begins with the smallest step. OFI is trying to initiallyaccumulate at least 1,000 hectares of forest in this area, forest that is being threatened by palm oil concessionaires who are sweet-talking, intimidating, and trying their hardest to persuade local people, including Dayaks in the area, to sell their forest land for conversion to palm oil.  By buying the forest, we save it forever.  A thousand hectare chunk of forest is enough to make a difference for orangutans and other wildlife.

But we know that without much financial help from the rest of the world, we will not be able to stop the palm oil concessionaires from buying much of the local forest.  Even with palm oil prices down, palm oil plantations are a major driver of local economies.  Palm oil plantations are  machines to print money.  We can’t compete with these people.  But what we can do is buy forest and try to set up wildlife corridors where orangutans and other animals can escape the savage annihilation of their habitats and find a bit of respite.  We are trying to link the coastal swamps to the dry ground forests in the north.

OFI needs to buy the rest of Mr. Freddy’s forest, all 80 hectares (approximately 200 acres) of it.  The smiling Mr. Freddy says he prefers to sell the remainder of his centrally located forest to conservationists but has made it clear selling to palm oil concessionaires is a strong alternative if OFI doesn’t buy his forest soon.

How soon?  Very soon!

The cost?  $ 500 per hectare (2.5 acres).  The price was less even a year ago but the palm oil companies need land.  They have the seedlings and the labor.  What stops their money printing machines from operating  is lack of land.  Many palm oil companies clear the forest, sell the commercially viable timber, and then burn the rest during the dry season, utilizing the ash as fertilizer for the palm seedlings they plant.

$500 per hectare (2.5 acres) and the land belongs to the orangutans and other wildlife forever.  Please help save Borneo’s rain forests a hectare at a time.  Help orangutans and all the other extraordinary wildlife found in these verdant, lush forests which are in so much danger of annihilation.

Send contributions to OFI at www.orangutan.org Find the postal address there and more information about our work. If these 80 hectares of forest are sold to the palm oil concessionaires, that forest is lost to the orangutans, and humankind as well, forever.